3D Eez Bed Surface Treatment

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  • $5.95
  • Regular price $8.95


Important note:

The manufacturer of 3D Eez has unfortunately gone out of business, and we have only a few bottles left. Unfortunately, the colorant has started to separate in the bottles (See the second photo attached). In our testing this has not caused a noticeable performance difference as long as store the bottle upside down, however the remaining stock is being sold at a discounted price on an AS-IS basis.

 

3D-Eez build plate film is a high-tensile strength liquid polymer that helps your builds to hold fast during printing, with easy removal post-print. Allows printing ABS, PLA and many exotic filaments without warping. See Richrap's review for more information.

Simply paint on to your heated or non-heated build surface, allow to cure, print as usual. Prepare yourself for better builds!

Ships with foam applicator brush.

 

Why 3D-EEZ?

3D-EEZ has been formulated for use with Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) 3D printers. 3D-EEZ allows makers and engineers to use a wide range of materials without losing builds to warping, shrinking, or curling.

 

  • 3D-EEZ is better for the environment. Tapes and spray-on coatings can only be used a handful of times, at best. 3D-EeZ films have been tested for more than 20 prints per application. One expert user, RichRap, reported up to 120 prints on a single 3D-EeZ film! With better builds, 3D-EeZ leads to less filament material waste by eliminating lifting, curling, and other common FDM build challenges.

  • 3D-EEZ is non-toxic. No aerosols, no vapors, no toxic chemicals.

  • 3D-EeZ provides a flexible solution. You only need to apply 3D-EeZ to the area where you will be building (greater efficiency). If the 3D-EeZ surface becomes damaged, you can repair it with more 3D-EeZ, or by wiping the surface with a damp sponge. You can also remove the film and apply a fresh layer(s) of 3D-EeZ.

  • 3D-EeZ is re-usable, but not permanent. Many retrofit, permanent, one-size-fits-all build plate materials have been developed. They all suffer from the same issue: after extended use, or in the case of a damaged surface: they need to be replaced. You can print on 3D-EeZ for many, many builds or one build. 3D-EeZ protects your solid build surface (glass, metal, or acrylic) from scratches or damage from an extruder that is too close to the build platform (see calibration tips below).

 

What materials does it work with?

3D-EEZ has been tested and proven to work with:

  • ABS

  • PET

  • PLA

  • Nylon

  • Copolyester

  • PLA Composites (XT-CF20, BronzeFill, WoodFill, etc.)

  • Recycled ABS & PET

 

How do I use 3D-EeZ?

Always clean your build plate before applying 3D-EeZ. Use alcohol, ethanol, acetone, or even dish soap.

 

Do you have a heated build plate?

Heat your build plate to 55 degrees C. Paint on a thin layer of 3D-EeZ. Wait until it turns translucent. Repeat as desired, up to 3 layers (for large builds or difficult materials). Once the 3D-EeZ has cured fully, print as usual. Finished parts will remove easily at a bed temperature of 28 degrees C.

 

Do you have a non-heated build plate?

Apply 3D-EeZ to your build plate. Allow to cure until it turns translucent. To speed up the process, try placing your build plate in front of a fan or in direct sunlight. Add additional layers as needed.

 

How do I calibrate my printer with 3D-EeZ?

It’s remarkably similar to calibrating for other bed surfaces/preparations! We recommend using precise tools, such as a feeler gauge. Paper works OK too. Once the 3D-EeZ film has cured, calibrate your extruder to 0.1mm from the surface of the 3D-EeZ. Print as usual.

 

Tips from MTW

  • Be sure to reset your Z end stop after applying 3D Eez. You will apply a fairly thick coat, and you need a slightly higher than normal clearance to prevent the part from sticking too aggressively.
  • With PLA, you want very little "squish" on the first layer. With ABS you want a bit more. We recommend starting higher than you think and do a few small prints to dial in the proper Z offset-- too much squish makes parts very hard to remove.
  • To remove parts, allow the bed to cool all the way to room temperature. Use a razor scraper or a spatula to get under the part edges and remove.
  • The smoother your coats, the better.
  • When applying use a side to side motion to smear on thin coats. let dry fully before adding the next coat
  • If all else fails, removing the glass bed and soaking it overnight in water can help release the part.
  • if your nozzle tip scratches the surface, it is too low, you will not be able to remove the part easily. Repair the scratch with a new coat, amd raise your nozzle before procceding.